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Zambia's had a contorted history of bad breaks and brutal leaders. Recent moves toward democratisation have been reversed, then reversed again. Nationalisation in the 1960s led to widespread corruption and poverty; privatisation in the 1990s has had more or less the same effect. As floods in the north and drought in the south wipe out much of the country's crops, food relief supplies are being diverted to black market outlets and the threat of famine looms.

All of this might make Zambia sound like the last place on earth you'd want to go, but the country is far more hospitable to travellers than it's been in a while, and its natural beauty and animal life are unsurpassed in Africa.

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