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Lagos International airport (Murtala Mohammed) is 22km (13mi) from Lagos. Taxis to the city are also available. The national carrier, Nigerian Airways, offers flights to a number of European destinies but it can be a bumpy ride. International carriers fly in and out of Lagos but due to political instability scheduled flights may sometimes be cancelled. The departure tax for international flights is US$35.

Sea services to Lagos, Port Harcourt and Calabar sail from London, Liverpool and other European ports. There are also boats from Oron (just inside the Nigerian border) to Limbe (just inside the Cameroon border) but it involves changing boats, running the gauntlet of suspicious custom officials and negotiating hostile relations between the two countries. Share taxis can take you by road to Benin, Cameroon, Chad and Niger. Most border crossings involve dash handed over to customs officials in a pleasant manner.

Money and Cost

Currency: Niara (N)

Meals


• Budget: US$2-4

• Mid-range: US$4-10

• Top-end: US$10 and up
  
  Lodging
  

• Budget: US$2-10

• Mid-range: US$10-50

• Top-end: US$50 and upwards

The niara continues to be devalued against foreign currencies making it a boon for western travellers. A budget traveller happy with YMCA accommodation or shared facilities and a fondness for African soups and goat curry can survive on as little as US$10-15 a day. Be very careful with budget accommodation in the bigger cities such as Lagos. Due to the high personal security risks you are considerably increasing your chances of being mugged or robbed at the very least. Those on a moderate budget hoping for air-conditioning, running water, and lights that work (or one out of the three) can expect to pay between US$30-50, while those staying at the best places in town and dining out on European style food can shell out over US$150 a day.

Lugging wads of cash around isn't usually a good idea but in the case of Nigeria you should probably take some readies with you to smooth your way through customs. It may also take a while for the bank to change your travellers' cheques, if at all, and a hefty commission is often involved. There's a flourishing black market that usually offers better rates but it is illegal. Credit cards are all but useless except in five star hotels and there are numerous credit card scams on the go. Tipping is a grey area but generally speaking you will be expected to tip 10% in the better restaurants. Check the bill to see if service has been included. Nigeria is built on the practice of dash (bribe money) so don't even think about avoiding it. Requests can range from the downright intimidating to a pleasant smile and a gentle invitation to hand over money but which ever way it's done, it's done frequently.