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Since the lifting of UN sanctions, international flights to Libya have slowly been increasing. British Airways were the first off the blocks, with Royal Jordanian close behind. Additionally Lufthansa and Olympic Airways are now helping connect Tripoli with most of the Arab capitals and with Europe and the Far East. There are sea connections with Malta every other day, but the fare is a whopping US$170 each way.

Although the land border with Chad is open and there are reliable connections by truck, only Libyan and Chadian nationals are allowed to make the crossing. The same story applies at the Sudanese border. If you're heading to or arriving from Egypt or Tunisia, buses and shared taxis are your only options. The fares are low, but the driving can be erratic.

Money & Costs

Currency: Libyan dinar (LD)

Meals


• Budget: US$5-10

• Mid-range: US$10-25

• Top-end: US$25 and upwards
  
  Lodging
  

• Budget: US$8-20

• Mid-range: US$20-80

• Top-end: US$80 and upwards

Expenses vary widely according to the rate of exchange they finagle: the difference between the official and the unofficial rate is a staggering six times. If you stay at business-class hotels and change your money at the bank, your trip's going to cost you as much as a visit to Geneva or Tokyo. Maybe more. But if you can manage to change a little money on the sidelines, you'll be living large and doing so at a bargain.

Libya does not accept credit cards, and travellers' cheques are all but impossible to cash. Carrying cash is the only realistic option, and the favoured currency is the US dollar. Pounds sterling, deutschmarks and Italian lire are also acceptable. The main banks and larger hotels provide money-changing facilities; their rates are virtually identical.

When changing money on the black market in Libya, as anywhere, it's wise to be discreet. Some shopkeepers in the souq might be prepared to change your money, but don't ask if there are other people within earshot. You should also know that the better hotels, Libyan Arab Airlines and the ferry companies insist on foreigners paying in hard currency at the punitive official exchange rate or producing a bank receipt proving the money was changed legally.

Contrary to practises in the rest of North Africa, haggling over prices in the souqs is a no no. Tipping is not expected, though a service charge is sometimes added to hotel and restaurant bills.